There is more death to come in the last chapters of “Wild Dark Story”. The underlying gloom about the fate of earth and civilization may ware on some who may become bored with the author’s story.
Books of Interest Website: chetyarbrough.blog
Wild Dark Shore (A Novel)
Author: Charlotte McConaghy
NarratedBy: Cooper Mortlock & 3 more
Charlotte McConaghy (Author, writer born in Australia in 1988, Graduate Degree in Screenwriting and Masters in Screen Arts.)
This is a novel for environmentalists with a survivalist mentality but it is also a tale of mystery and human relationships. McConaghy’s education makes “Wild Dark Shore” feel like a screenwriter’s idea for a movie. She paints a word-picture of a cold wilderness island sinking into oblivion because of climate change. It reminds one of visiting a weather station in Antartica. One is mesmerized by seabirds flying in a brutal wind, penguins flocking across an icy landscape, and sea lions sunning themselves on broken islands of ice. If you are lucky on your voyage, you will see a pod of whales. McConaghy paints a picture of a forbidding landscape once inhabited by natives that became a lighthouse for ships of the sea. At the time of the author’s story, it became an outpost for environmental observation and seed preservation.
Islands around Australia.
“Wild Dark Story” is a mystery about a lost husband and a tough-minded wife who wants to know what happened to him after receiving three letters expressing fear about his assignment and life at the station. The station is being closed down by a family working at the island station. There is a father, two sons, and a daughter. The father’s wife has died. The task of closing the station is perilous but this family has lived on the station for several years and is intimately aware of the dangers and what must be done to ready it for abandonment. Their evacuation plans are interrupted when a vessel crashes near the station. The vessel carries the wife of the person who received the three letters from her husband. She survives the vessel’s destruction with wounds from the rocky shoreline. The pilot of the vessel is dead. The woman is rescued by the family that is preparing for evacuation.
Environmental degradation.
“Wild Dark Story” has some appeal to environmentalists because it is a dramatic presentation of the fragility of civilization in the face of rising tides and a warming planet. The island is set up, presumably by either a government or corporation that wishes to preserve unique plants from seeds in a cavern designed for that purpose. Preservation is being shown as a form of resistance to environmental degradation.
Leaving an isolated land.
In conversations amongst the family preparing for evacuation, the loss of the woman’s husband may have had something to do with the family that is closing the station. The father is reluctant to tell what happened and suggests his children should not say anything about it to the woman.
The new arrival’s husband was a biologist responsible for seed preservation.
There was a fire that burned down their home on the mainland. It was built by the hands of the woman who is trying to find out what happened to her husband. They had separated because the fire and total loss of the home had fractured their relationship. Her husband’s fate is never fully confirmed, but the novel strongly implies he may have died by accident, suicide, or possibly through a cover-up related to the dismantling of the seed vault.
Her husband had bonded with the youngest of the three children. This is interesting because one of the last fights he had with his wife before he left was about her not wanting to have a child.
Rescue or not.
At this point, the novel becomes too long. The mystery of her husband’s death may have been because of psychological imbalance but no definitive answer is given. The theme of the book is that isolation warps truth and identity and that grief is a force that drives human beings to fall apart or renew their lives. There is more death to come in the last chapters of “Wild Dark Story”. The underlying gloom about the fate of earth and civilization may ware on some who may become bored with the author’s story.
Technology is a key to social need which has not been well served in the past or present and could become worse without pragmatic accommodation.
Books of Interest Website: chetyarbrough.blog
Daughters of the Baboo Grove (From Chian to America, a True Story of Abduction, Adoption, and Separated Twins)
Author: Barbara Demick
NarratedBy: Joy Osmanski
Barbara Demick (Author, American journalist, former Beijing bureau chief for the Los Angeles Times.)
This is a brief and fascinating historical glimpse of a government policy gone awry. Like America’s mistaken policies on immigration, Barbara Demick’s story of China’s one-child policy traces the effects of government overreach. Demick tells the story of a rural Chinese family who births twin sisters during the time of China’s unjust enforcement of their one-child policy. One sister is abducted by Chinese government officials, and is adopted by a family in Texas. The ethics of an inhumane Chinese government policy and the perfidy of free enterprise are exposed in Demick’s true story of two children’s lives.
The territorial size of China in respect to continental America.
China’s one-child policy leads to a Chinese criminal enterprise to capitalize on kidnapping and selling children born to families that could not afford the fines for having more children than the law allows. Undoubtedly, most children born were cherished by their parents, but the hardship of life and human greed leads to unconscionable human trafficking. Kidnapping became a part of a legal and criminal enterprise in China. Government policy allowed bureaucrats and scofflaws to confiscate children from their parents and effectively deliver or sell children to orphanages or people wanting to adopt a child. Demick recounts stories of grieving parents and grandparents that cannot get their children back once they have been taken.
Child trafficking, broken families, loss of personal identity, human shame, and the immoral implication of other countries interest in adopting children are unintended consequences of a poorly thought out and implemented government policy.
Demick becomes interested in this story because of a message she receives from a stepbrother of an adopted Chinese sister that has a twin that lives in China. Because of Demick’s long experience in visiting and reporting on China, she had a network of people she could call. Using adoption records, Demick is able to find the Texas stepsister who had been kidnapped when she was 22 months old. She was trafficked to an orphanage in the Hunan Province of China. Years later, through messaging apps, the twins communicated with each other and shared their photographs. They eventually meet in China in 2019.
One is hesitant to argue a government policy is a unique act of China when every government makes policy decisions that have unintended consequences.
America’s policy decisions on immigration are a present-day fiasco that is as wrong as the one-child policy in China’s history. The one-child policy is eventually rejected by the Chinese’ government but Demick’s book shows how bad government policy has consequences that live on even when they are changed by future governments. America’s policy on immigration will be eventually reversed but its damage will live on.
Getting back to the story, Demick is instrumental in having the mother of Esther (aka E) and the twins meet in China.
One is hesitant to argue a government policy is a unique act of China when every government makes policy decisions that have unintended consequences. The twins are initially reticent but warm to each other in a way that bridges the cultural and language divide between the sisters. The two mothers see their respective roles in their daughter’s lives. E and her identical twin, Shuangjie, are reserved when they meet because of the cultural distance that was created by E’s adoption.
E. appears more confident than Shuangjie who is more reserved and less assured.
However, Demick suggests they seem to mirror each other in subsequent meetings. One feels a mix of emotions listening to this audiobook version of “Daughter’s of the Bamboo Grove”. They have grown up in different environments but seem to have been raised in similar economic circumstances, though the two economies are vastly different in income per household, the two appear to be raised in similar economic classes.
Every person who reads/listens to “Daughter’s of the Bamboo Grove” can view the story from different perspectives.
There is the perspective of identical twins raised in different families, cultures, and histories. How are identical twins different when they are raised by different parents and in different cultures? Another perspective is that Xi and Trump have had dramatic effects on the societies their policies have created. The Twin’s meeting in 2019 is one year after my wife and I had visited China. Xi had become President after his predecessor began opening China’s economic opportunities. Two incidents on the trip when Xi had become President come to mind. The first is the feeling one has of being monitored everywhere and the internet restrictions when used to ask questions. The second was an incident in a crowded Chinese market when I was approached by a beefy citizen who raised his arms and seemed to be angrily talking to me in Chinese which I sadly did not understand. The distinct impression is that I was not welcome. This was a singular incident that did not repeat in our 21-day tour, but it seemed like an expression of hostility toward America.
This listener/reader thinks of the unintended consequences of Trump’s treatment of alleged illegal immigrants.
Trump’s immigration policy is similar to China’s earlier mistake with the one-child policy. America’s, China’s, and Japan’s economies are highly dependent on youth which is diminished in two fundamental ways. One is by public policy that restricts birth, and the other is immigration. Freedom of choice is a foundational belief in democracy while considered a threat in autocracy. In America today, it seems there is little difference between America, Japan, or China in regard to government policy that threatens the future. All have an aging population that can only be aided by younger generations. Even though manufacturing may become less labor intensive, public need in the service industry will grow. Technology is a key to social need which has not been well served in the past or present and could become worse without pragmatic accommodation.
Ravina’s history is helpful in preparing for a trip to Japan because it offers some basis for comparison and understanding.
Books of Interest Website: chetyarbrough.blog
Understanding Japan (A Cultural History)
Lecturer: Mark J. Ravine
By: The Great Courses: Civilization & Culture
Mark J. Ravina (Professor of History at Emory University with an M.A. and Ph.D. from Stanford.)
In preparation for a trip to Japan this fall, it seems prudent to hear from someone who knows something about Japan’s culture and history. Professor Ravina specializes in Japanese history with focus on 18th and 19th century Japanese politics; however, these lectures go farther back and forward than his specialty. There is so much detail in these lectures, one is unable to fairly summarize what Ravina reveals.
Japan is an archipelago made up of 14,125 islands with 260 of which are occupied. The four main islands are Honshu (the home of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka), Hokkaido to the north, Kyushu to the south, and the smallest Shikoku (between Honshu and Kyushu).
Like the history of any nation that has existed since the 4th century CE, Japan’s culture has evolved based on influences that came from within and outside its borders. From indigenous beliefs to exposure to areas outside its territory, Japan has changed its traditions and culture. The rule of Japan has ranged from imperium to a battle-hardened warrior class to a popularly elected intellectual class influenced by internal and external societal and political events. At times, each social class has offered both stability and conflict. In the 20th century, of course, Japan’s attack on Pearl Harbor dramatically changed its economy and influenced its society.
Japanese Emperor.
In Japan’s early centuries, an imperial and aristocratic class rose to rule Japan. The Asuka, Nara, Helan emperors during the Fujiwara era (538-1185) were respected and revered but the rise of the samurai class turned emperors into influencers more than exercisers of power. Power becomes centralized in a society that is highly stratified with nobility, Buddhist clergy, samurai, farmers, and artisans. Before 1185, territorial regents developed their own armies by relying on feudal lords who had their own warrior clans that became the fierce samurai of legend and reality.
As regents of Japan gained power and influence, emperors became symbols of culture more than centers of power. Rule and administration of territories became reliant on the power of a samurai class that at first supported the regents but soon became the true rulers of Japan.
Loyalty, honor, and focus on victory or death changed the management class and encouraged society to revere a Zen aesthetic, a belief in simplicity, naturalness, imperfection, and quiet depth. The samurai became a power behind the thrown in the 12th century and eventually the de facto rulers of Japan with emperors becoming more ceremonial. Leading samurai became Shoguns, hereditary military rulers of Japan. Emperors were revered, but their power diminished with growing influence of Shoguns that held power for nearly 700 years from 1185 to 1868.
Samurai leadership unified Japanese society.
Ravina explains the samurai period of Japan matured in the 12th century which evolved into rule by the strongest. Samurai influence shaped the political, social and philosophical identify of the people. In what is called the Edo period of the samurai from 1603 to 1868, there were long periods of peace and prosperity like that of the Tokugawa shogunate in the modern-day Tokyo area of Japan. The Edo period lasted for 250 years. Literacy grew during this period and was tied to governance, law, and moral instruction. Religious practices became more ritualized with meditation and subtlety different spiritual beliefs. A merchant class is formed during this period and the arts, like calligraphy and theatre performances, became more widely practiced. Kabuki theatre becomes an entertainment with a reputation ranging from the ethereal to debauched.
Ravina explains samurai values are not abandoned but are recast to focus on industrialization of Japan in the 19th century.
By the end of the ninetieth century, 95% of the citizens had been educated in schools, compared with just 3% in 1853. The samurai became leaders in modern institutions and businesses. They followed a samurai code called Bushido with core values of rectitude, courage, benevolence, respect, honesty, honor, loyalty, and self-control. Emphasis is put on living with purpose, discipline, and moral clarity.
A Japanese garden.
Ravina notes Japanese culture is exemplified by garden creations that represent the religious and philosophical ideals of its residents. The Japanese take great pride in their tea gardens, rock gardens, strolling gardens, some of which have become UNESCO heritage sites. The Japanese revere nature because it represents the Zen principles of simplicity, naturalness, imperfection, and the depth of a quiet life. Gardens are considered spiritual and moral spaces for quiet contemplation.
Ravina suggests Japan, like America and most nations of the world, has not abandoned its past but has adapted to the present based on what has happened in its past. Ravina’s history is helpful in preparing for a trip to Japan because it offers some basis for comparison and understanding.
Mahaffey is a supporter of nuclear energy and its potential for earth’s energy needs. He argues fission can be made a useful source of energy while fusion research holds the best opportunity for humanity’s future.
Books of Interest Website: chetyarbrough.blog
Atomic Adventures (Secret Islands, Forgotten N-Rays, and Isotopic Murder-A Journey into the Wild World of Nuclear Science.)
By: James Mahaffey
Narrated By: Keith Sellon-Wright
James Mahaffey (Author, Research scientist at Georgia Tech Research Institute)
“Atomic Adventures” is a reminder of the race for the atomic bomb, its wide pursuit by nations of the world, and research for the holy grail of atomic fusion. Mahaffey’s science explanations are tedious for non-scientists, but his history of the secrets and use of atomic energy are interesting and surprising.
The United States, with the help of the UK, may have been first to acquire the atom bomb in 1945, but eight more nations acquired it by 2006.
United States: Acquired in 1945.
Russia (formerly the Soviet Union): Acquired in 1949.
United Kingdom: Acquired in 1952.
France: Acquired in 1960.
China: Acquired in 1964.
India: Acquired in 1974.
Israel: Believed to have acquired in the late 1960s, though it maintains a policy of deliberate ambiguity.
Pakistan: Acquired in 1998.
North Korea: Acquired in 2006
It is somewhat ironic that Pakistan did not acquire the atom bomb until 1998 when Pakistan’s “father of the bomb”, Abdul Qadeer Khan, became a rich man by selling technological know-how of the bomb to nations like North Korea, Libya, and Iran.
Abdul Qadeer Khan (1936-2021, father of Pakistan’s atomic weapons program, died at age 85.)
As a singular discovery, Einstein’s E = mc² offered a dual opportunity for the world, i.e., destruction and/or survival of the human race. The bomb suggests destruction while nuclear fusion offers an inexhaustible energy source that could reverse global warming and rocket human beings to other worlds.
Mahaffey notes there were Japanese, as well as better known German scientists, who were working on the creation of a nuclear bomb that could destroy Allied armaments and combatants. The rush to weaponize radiation during WWII surprisingly includes research being done by Japan as well as Germany during WWII. America won the research race because of superior human and financial resources that could be marshalled to complete the scientific research and experimentation needed to perfect a nuclear weapon.
Mahaffey explores the creation and destructive history of the atom bomb.
Surprising to some listeners, Mahaffey explains Argentina’s significant effort to increase its research and development of nuclear power after WWII. Argentina created the National Atomic Energy Commision in 1950. The chief researcher, hired by President Juan Perón, was Ronald Richter (1909-1991), an Austrian-born scientist who headed their plan to create a fusion power facility. Richter fails but nuclear energy remains an important part of Argentina’s history. In the 1960s they built their own research reactors and by 1974 built their first fission nuclear power reactor, Atucha I. By 1984, they had two heavy-water reactors with Atucha I and Atucha II.
Ronald Richter (1909-1991, Austrian-born German who became an Argentine citizen who headed up the Argentine Huemul Project to create a nuclear fusion power plant. He failed, despite the millions of dollars spent to build and rebuild fusion power plants.
Yoshio Nishina (the father of modern physics research), Bunsaku Arakatsu, and Masatoshi Okochi created the so-called Ni-Go and F-Go projects to develop an atom bomb. They did not get beyond the laboratory stage because of a lack of resources, the exigency of war, and the complexity of nuclear technology. The energy of nuclear power, as shown by history, is two edged.
Yoshio Nishina (1890-1945, the father of modern physics research during WWII.)
and potentially provide a clean renewable energy source.
Mahaffey explains how research in fusion can go awry. In a news article, two chemists reported in 1989 that fusion was created in their experiment by involving heavy water (deuterium oxide) and palladium electrodes. They reported excess heat production that they believed was nuclear fusion. As with all scientific experiment, their results had to be confirmed by other scientists testing of their results in the same experiment. Mahaffey, in his role at the Georgia Research Institute, was asked to replicate the experiment. Using the same tabletop experiment, Mahaffey initially confirmed Fleishmann’s and Pons’ findings. However, no other table-top experiments found the same results. What Mahaffey finally found was that the neutron counting device that was recording increased heat was the actual source of the heat increase, not the chemical interaction between heavy water and palladium electrodes. Further research is being conducted but the U.S. Department of Energy concluded in 2004 there is no convincing evidence to support cold fusion. Tests are still being done but Mahaffey infers that research is a scientific dead end. Mahaffey and a colleague tried again in a basement of his colleague’s house to try a similar experiment and failed.
Nuclear power has the potential to revolutionize interplanetary travel. The higher efficiency and power, particularly with the perfection of fusion, will shorten travel times and make trips to Mars and beyond more feasible.
Mahaffey explains how communication will be a challenge when interplanetary travel becomes common. The distance to other planets or galaxies will impede communication because of the limits of the “speed of light”. However, the solution may lie in quantum entanglement’s experimental proof found by Clauser, Aspect, and Zellinger. The complexity of entanglement makes the theory unprovable at the time of Mahaffey’s book.
In theory, quantum entanglement suggests information (communication) may be instantaneously transmitted across galaxies without the limitations of the speed of light.
Mahaffey goes on to explain the risk of radiation in a chapter about a “dirty bomb”. Security measures used to protect the public from radiation leaks make thieves believe something valuable is being secured by government laboratories. Thieves will steal these secure containers only to find they are risking death by opening their booty. Additionally, Mahaffey notes radioactive material is often disposed of illegally and irradiates innocent people who own dump sites that received inadequately contained radioactive material.
Mahaffey is a supporter of nuclear energy and its potential for earth’s energy needs. He argues fission can be made a useful source of energy while fusion research holds the best opportunity for humanity’s future.
Freedom, once it is experienced, is an unconquerable force. Conquest of Ukraine, the Baltics, or Taiwan would be a pyric victory at a cost far in excess of a conquerors’ perceived value.
Books of Interest Website: chetyarbrough.blog
The Return of Great Powers (Russia, China, and the Next World War)
By: Jim Sciutto
Narrated By: Jim Sciutto
Jim Sciutto (Former American news anchor for ABC, national security correspondent for CNN, Yale graduate majoring in Chinese history.)
Jim Sciutto has been seen by many on television. One suspects few know he served as the Chief of Staff and Senior Advisor to the U.S. Ambassador to China between 2011 and 2013. His book, “The Return of Great Powers” is interesting but not particularly revelatory. It was written before today’s news of the blows to Iran’s role in the Middle East with the removal of Syria’s brutal leader and Israel’s increased attacks on Hezbollah and Hamas. Tragically, there is always death of innocents in war. The question is whether war is ever worth its cost.
Sciutto certainly has a better grasp of China than most Americans based on his education and experience but his general analysis of the “…Great Powers” and their return is more topical than insightful.
The rise of Putin and Xi have certainly changed the world. Newspapers and television are full of stories about these leaders’ dance around the war in Ukraine. Xi offers moral and financial support to Putin, along with some important weapon components needed by the military, but China limits military equipment and direct munitions provisions for the war. China may benefit from Russia’s Ukraine invasion because of Xi’s expressed interest in acquiring Taiwan but China’s advances have not moved much from where they were before the invasion.
What seems clear today, particularly in Sciutto’s book, is that Putin has made too many mistakes in his invasion of Ukraine.
Putin’s apparent disregard for Russian soldiers’ deaths undoubtedly threatens his influence with many Russian citizens. Some of America’s media suggest Putin is becoming more conscious of his political and personal vulnerability. It is reported by Gleb Karakulov. a Russian engineer and defector who fled to Kazakhstan, that Putin has become paranoid and increasingly isolated.
Sciutto suggests Estonia is on a Putin invasion list once Ukraine has been conquered.
Having recently returned from the Baltics, occupation of Estonia would be a pyric victory for the same reasons as the Ukraine invasion. The hate for Russians one hears from Baltics’ residents (Lithuanian, Estonian, and Latavian) who were under the rule of Russia from 1940s to 1991 is palpable. The jail cells, torture, and murder of Baltic citizens by Russia is detailed by tour guides from each country. The prosperity of the Baltic countries since 1991 is a tribute to freedom that will not be given up easily by its people. At best, Russia may be able to occupy the Baltics, but citizen resistance would far outweigh any value occupation might offer.
Sciutto goes on to imply Taiwan will lose its independence to China.
The picture of death and destruction he outlines with China’s overwhelming military might mitigates against China’s success. Once freedom is experienced, it is like genies in a bottle–difficult to be re-imprisoned. Whether NATO or America will come to Taiwan’s aid is unknown, but like Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and Putin’s interest in the Baltics, the price to be paid is higher than the reward they can expect.
Freedom, once it is experienced, is an unconquerable force. Conquest of Ukraine, the Baltics, or Taiwan would be a pyric victory at a cost far in excess of a conquerors’ perceived value.
Our tour of the Baltic countries reveals evidence of Stalin’s brutality and the fear it created in the Baltic countries between 1945 and 1990-91. The same fate may be in store for Ukraine if Putin’s invasion succeeds.
Travel
Written by Chet Yarbrough
It’s been a while since our last trip out of America because of Covid. Poland, the Baltics, and Finland were my first choice because of their troubled history with Russia. The depth and breadth of these five countries’ history is a reminder of what is at stake with the invasion of Ukraine.
In traveling to Poland, the Baltics, and Finland, one’s understanding of political suppression becomes crystal clear. In contrast to the Baltics and Finland, Poland is the most often invaded of the five countries. The Mongol empire invades Poland in the 13th century, the Swedish Monarchy in the 17th, Russia, Prussia, and Austria partition Poland in the 18th, and in two world wars Russia and Germany vie for Poland’s land in the 20th. It is little wonder that Poland chooses to be a haven for Ukrainians when Russia invades Ukraine in the 21st century. Poland understands the hardship of invasion and suppression by a foreign power.
Poland’s sovereignty has been challenged by many invasions, beginning with the Mongol empire in the 13th century.
Genghis Khan (1162-1227.)
Traveling across Poland makes one understand why it has been invaded so many times. Poland’s lush countryside is a reminder of Ukraine’s agricultural reputation as the breadbasket of Europe.
To invaders, the wealth of Ukraine is like the wealth of Poland. Poland’s elaborate salt mine at Wieliczka was established in the 13th century. It played a crucial role in Poland’s economy when salt was referred to as “white gold”. Adding to Poland’s agricultural value is its industrial growth and its obvious economic prosperity; not to mention its strategic location as pathway to East and West European countries.
Beyond its wealth, Poland’s culture birthed the great composer, Frederic Chopin and renowned Pope, John Paul II.
The atrocity of the Holocaust is made real and unforgettable to visitors of the Auschwitz’ death camp in Poland. One shutters with a view of work camps, gas chambers, shoes and clothes of over a million people gassed by the Germans at Auschwitz. Upon liberation of Auschwitz, the German commander is hung from the U-shaped posts erected at the camp. How could this mass murder have happened? Tragically, mass murder is happening today.
Man’s inhumanity to man is evidenced in Ukraine, Myanmar, Yemen, Ethiopia, Israel, and Gaza. No country in the world that wages war, either defensively or offensively, is without innocent blood on their hands.
After this brief exposure to Poland, we fly to Lithuania. Here we find the atrocity of Stalin’s Russia as the tyrant of the Baltics after WWII. One’s ignorance of the history of Russia’s tyrannical rule is concretely revealed by a woman who is a survivor of Stalin’s takeover of the Baltics in 1945. A version of her story is told in “Between Shades of Gray” which was recommended by our guide on this trip.
The subject of “Between Shades of Gray” is a young girl and her brother’s survival during Stalin’s invasion of the Baltics. Much of what is written in Ruta Sepetys’ book is a reflection of what this spry octogenarian survivor explains happened to her and her family in 1945. Her name is Lina Vilkas.
Ms. Vilkas explains this is a replica of the rail car used to transport Lithuanians to work camps in Siberia.
One hole in the floor of a similar box car is a toilet for its overcrowded Lithuanian’ prisoners.
The Baltics were ruled by Russia until the early 1990s. Lithuanian independence is declared in 1990: Estonia and Latvia independence in 1991. After touring Lithuania, the cruelty of imprisonment, torture, and murder of Baltic residents is revealed in a tour of jail torture cells, and work farms. The tour evidence is reinforced by vituperative comments by home-hosted’ survivors of Russia’s 45-year dictatorial rule. The fear of reprisal and murder kept most Lithuanians in line. The hate and distrust of Russians seems palpable in the Baltics. Even Gorbachev is viewed by our guide as a mere functionary, not liberator of the Baltics. Forgetting may come with time, but forgiveness seems unlikely.
These pictures are of one of the Russian prisons in which Lithuanian citizens were held. The lower left shows a rubber floored room in which prisoners who were losing their mind were detained. The chamber to its right is a killing chamber where prisoners received a bullet to the back of the head. The bucket above these two pictures is a toilet for a cell, only emptied after smells must have permeated the hallways. Constant surveillance, torture, and demonstrated murders kept Baltic prisoners in line and the general public in fear.
To lighten our tour’s mood, these distressful reminders of Russian torture and murder, a brief trip is taken to a folklore and witches’ park in Neringa, Lithuania.
The most remarkable thing about travelling through the Baltics while listening to guides and economy lecturers is how industrially successful the Baltics have been since their liberation in the 1990s. Taxes are represented as more burdensome than in America, but residents appear benefitted from that tax burden when one sees how prosperous the Baltics appear to short-term visitors. Few homeless people are seen in the city. The cobble stone streets are constantly being repaired; new development is seen everywhere; luxury goods are seen in stores throughout the city.
The fear felt when Russia ruled the Baltics seems gone. Fear seems replaced by optimism for the Baltic’s future as members of the European Union. However, Russia’s invasion of Ukraine represents an ever-present concern to the Baltics new way of life. One wonders if that threat might lead to a military response from the Baltics like that of North Korea’s alleged troop deployment in Russia’s war in Ukraine. That seems doubtful but no one away from armed and deadly conflict can know.
Taking a bus to Neringa, Lithuanian, our guide takes us to a beach on the Baltic Sea. Here, we search for amber, a fossilized tree resin that ranges in color from yellow, to brown, green, blue, or black. Amber is a jeweler and hobbyist collectors dream, found primarily around the Baltic Sea. Few tourists leave the Baltics without a piece of amber to remind them of the trip.
Baltic Sea amber search.
Next, we head to Rukundziai, Lithuania to visit an abandoned and preserved missile base. Later we visit the countryside: a tourist attraction called the “Hill of Crosses”, a cultural heritage site that honors friends and family that have died. Thousands of crosses have been placed to commemorate those who have passed. The jumble of crosses is immense.
We are on our way to Riga, the capital of Latvia. Here, we visit a massive public market held in five former blimp hangars, reassembled in the heart of Latvia. Every spice and consumer product one can think of seems on display. Flowers are everywhere. Like Lithuania, Riga is a modern city with a well-known University. We spend part of the day in the city but head to the country for a visit to a goat farm. Like Poland and Lithuania, Latvia impresses travelers with its industry, farming, and economic growth.
Our final stop in the Baltics is Tallinn, Estonia which will be our port of debarkation to Finland. We visit Peter the Great’s summer home, a massive property which has become a national Russian and West European’ art museum. The Palace was not completed before the King died but its grounds are a sight to behold. Though Peter the Great was a 17th century Russian Czar, he was an enlightened monarch who had interests in science, technology and natural science. From the perspective of Estonian citizens, he brought interest in improving general education for the young.
We depart Estonia by ferry. Our ship is crowded with tourist buses, transport vehicles and citizens from all over the world. The two-hour crossing is a pleasure, accompanied with food, refreshments, and spectacular Baltic Sea views.
What one recognizes on this trip is the great concern the three Baltic countries have of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.
We take a ten-story ferry across the Baltics to visit Finland.
Helsinki is a modern 21st century city, Finland’s capitol. We visit a state-of-the-art library that serves the public with everything from sound studios to AI model makers to classes to private reading/discussion rooms. Finland’s reputation as the happiest country in the world starts with a state-of-the art education system. On a field trip, our 16-person group visits a state subsidized farm in the country. It is a large farm with a short growing season that is supplemented by horse and farm animal stabling during the winter. It is surprisingly managed by a young couple, one of which is a descendant of the original owners. Management seems somewhat lay-back by American farming standards. It appears the farm could not exist without Finland’s government subsidy. The young couple seem underqualified farmers–more like hosts to a culture that would not survive without government help.
As is well known, Finland has a long border with Russia. In defense of their country, the Finns allied themselves with the Nazis during WWII. They are reported to have protected Finnish Jews from the Nazis, but fear of Russian encroachment was judged to require a devil’s bargain during WWII. In a previous trip to Finland, a guide explains a tenuous relationship with Russians that allows easy travel between countries because of their long border with Russia. The Finns are respectful but undoubtedly with watchful eyes. Finland refuses to be intimidated by Russia. By the same token, Russia appears disinclined to interfere with Finnish governance.
Many citizens feel they could be the next target of aggression by Russian oligarchs being led by today’s reincarnation of a Stalin in Vladimer Putin clothes.
The story of Holodomor and today’s Ukraine invasion show the depth of Russian government venality. Our tour of the Baltic countries reveals evidence of Stalin’s brutality and the fear it created in the Baltic countries between 1945 and 1990-91. The same fate may be in store for Ukraine if Putin’s invasion succeeds.
How close is the world to its next world war? The character of today’s leaders seems as threatening as Stalin and as unpredictable as Churchill.
Books of Interest Website: chetyarbrough.blog
The Stalin Affair (The Impossible Alliance That Won the War)
By: Giles Milton
Narrated By: Giles Milton
Giles Milton (Author, British writer and historian.)
Giles Milton offers a fascinating and well written account of the dynamics of the relationship between Churchill and Stalin with a brief analysis of Franklin Roosevelt that shows a difference of opinion about Stalin. There are some surprises in Milton’s history of the beginning and ending of WWII and the role of Joseph Stalin.
As is well known, Stalin and Hitler made a pact at the beginning of the war that made them allies with a plan to divide Europe between their two countries.
The pact falls apart when Hitler chooses to invade Russia on June 22, 1941. Germany made rapid progress and was nearing Moscow when winter struck, and Germany’s wheels of war were stuck in the mud. Stalin was psychologically paralyzed by Germany’s decision to turn against Russia. He hid in his dacha, his second home in the Russian countryside. A delegation of Russians went to the Stalin’s dacha and pleaded with him to direct the defense of Russia against Germany’s onslaught. Stalin is surprised that the delegation wanted him to return to the leadership of Russia in Milton’s telling of the story. One presumes that reluctance is because of Stalin’s mistake in believing Hitler could be a reliable ally in their mutual desire to expand their territories.
Milton’s history has a particular interest to me because of a planned personal visit to the Baltics next month.
In reading a book about the Baltics during WWII, there seems some confusion among the Baltic countries because their sovereignty is being usurped by Russia while the instigator of WWII is Germany. The guide on the trip suggests we read “between shades of gray”, a book written by Rusa Sepetys, a Lithuanian born American writer. Sepetys story is of Lithuania intellectuals being arrested by Stalin’s troops and carted off to Siberia. Brief mention of the Germans is mentioned but implies the Germans were not the enemy but an opposing force of the Russian attack on the Baltics. Having visited Finland last year, it is interesting to find the Finns allied themselves to Germany during WWII because of their fear of Russia’s aggression. Now, having read Sepetys novel of Russian aggression in early 1941, one begins to understand the complexity of which side of the war the Baltics chose to be on.
Ruta Sepetys (Lithuanian born American writer.)
It tells the story of Russia’s invasion of the Baltics soon after Hitler’s decision to attack Russia.
WWII in the Baltics is not Milton’s history, but Sepetys offers a footnote on its consequence in the Baltics.
Milton makes one feel they are in the room when decisions are made about the progress and ending of WWII. It is a fascinating story. Stalin is a villain in sheep’s clothing. His lust for power is unquenchable. Winston Chruchill is shown to be more aware of Stalin’s intent than Franklin Roosevelt. At Yalta, where the peace plan is agreed to and signed, Milton explains Roosevelt is feeble. The Yalta conference took place in February 1945. Roosevelt dies in April, two months later. Stalin’s ambition is the expansion of the U.S.S.R. and anything that gets in the way of that ambition is an obstacle to be overcome or removed.
Milton’s access to historical documents, reveals the many important roles of government leaders during WWII and after.
Of course, the most obviously impactful leaders are Churchill and Stalin, but the author notes the roles of lesser-known participants like Averell Harriman, Kathy Harriman, and Vyacheslav Molotov. There is also the role of Lavrentiy Beria, Stalin’s head of the NKVD (the Soviet secret police).
W. Averell Harriman (1891-1986, American politician, businessman, and diplomat.)
Averell Harriman, as the son of a wealthy railroad baron, becomes the founder of Brown Brothers Harriman & Co., an investment company. He became one of the richest men in America.
Harriman is asked by Roosevelt to become the America’s diplomatic contact with Great Britain to manage the Lend-Lease Program before America enters the war. As a personal envoy, he strengthens the alliance between Britain and America. Later he becomes Ambassador to the Soviet Union after Hitler’s betrayal of Stalin. Milton touches on the married Harriman’s attraction to women and his extramarital affairs. However, Harriman was revered by Churchill, and later Stalin, for the aid he coordinated for both countries during the war.
Kathleen Harriman (1917-2011, died at age 93.)
A lesser-known role is of Harriman’s daughter, Kathy Harriman. In the first years of contact between her father and Stalin, Ms. Harriman smooths America’s relationship with the Russian administration.
Ms. Harriman leaned to speak Russian and aided her father in his diplomatic contact with Soviet officials. She became a correspondent for the International News Service and Newsweek during her time in Russia. In 1944, Ms. Harriman exposes the mass murder of 22,000 Polish officers by the NKVD, at the order of Stalin. She plays a role in the Yalta Conference in assisting the American delegation with logistics and management.
Milton makes a listener feel like they are in the room at a dinner table with Stalin and Churchill when they exchange harsh words about the creation of a western front to aid the Russian army in the fight with German soldiers.
Stalin demeans the British army for their early failures in the war when they were outnumbered and outgunned by the Germans. Churchill is deeply offended by the disparagement and is on the verge of canceling a dinner with Stalin before leaving Russia. His anger is quelled by Harriman. Churchill changes his tone with the Russian leader and mends their relationship over cigars and alcohol. However, there is little doubt about their continued acrimony and Churchill’s unshaken belief in Stalin’s intent to expand his empire.
Milton offers the same “in the room” understanding of what happens at the Yalta Conference.
Germany is divided into four occupation zones which ended up being East and West Germany. The groundwork for the United Nations is formed with the aid of promoting international cooperation and prevention of future conflicts. A zone of influence is created between Eastern European Countries which were added to the U.S.S.R., to expand a buffer zone between Russia and the Western Powers. This iron curtain results in the cold war. The table is set at Yalta for the Nuremberg Trials of Nazi and Japanese leaders and for future reparations to rebuild Europe.
“The Stalin Affair” is an excellent reminder of WWII that makes one think about what is happening today with Russia in Ukraine and Israel in Gaza. How close is the world to its next world war? The character of today’s leaders seems as threatening as Stalin and as unpredictable as Churchill.
Having heard of Henning Mankell’s mysteries (of which there are many), Kurt Wallander is a reoccurring character as an investigative Swedish detective.
The relevance of “The Dogs of Riga” is in the transition that was occurring when Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia achieved independence from the U.S.S.R. The Baltics had been a part of and controlled by the U.S.S.R. since 1940. Mankell’s book was first published in 1992, one year after the 1991′ dissolution of the U.S.S.R.
Riga Technical University (Engineering Center in the Baltics)
It is interesting to find in “The Dogs of Riga” that Wallander’s daughter chooses to go to Riga for her college education which makes one wonder why Riga would be chosen. Is it because of the quality of education or just to be further away from family? In any case, the reason these books are recommended is to give some perspective to new visitors of other countries. An interesting observation one makes about “The Dogs of Riga” is a sense of resentment from the Latvians about Russia and their former domination of the Baltic States.
Season 3, Episode 2 of “The Dogs of Riga” on Masterpiece Theater.
Going back to the story, two Russians were shot in the heart, and set adrift on a raft in Swedish waters. Autopsy shows the Russians were well dressed indicating wealth. It was found they had high concentrations of amphetamine in their bodies. In investigating the murders, Wallander finds they came from Riga, the capitol of Latvia. An officer from Latvia goes to Sweden to talk to Wallander. After the visiting officer returns to Riga, he is murdered and Wallander is asked to come to Riga to investigate his death.
With the opening of Latvia to the western world, freedom from communist controls is a mixed blessing.
Mankell begins to tell listener/readers something about Latvia and its suspicion of Russian residents in their country. Along with more freedom to pursue economic growth is the rise of a drug trade and criminal activity. Mankell’s story infers illegal activity is exacerbated by Russians who resent Latvia’s independence from the U.S.S.R. However, with greater freedom comes crime as well as improved economic opportunity. One reserves judgement about whether Russians are the primary cause of drug activity in Latvia because breaking the law is characteristic of all nationalities under all forms of government. The characterization of Russians as the cause of the illegal drug trade in Riga is possible. However, it is the same question one must ask themselves about America and the origins, causes, and persistence of its drug trade.
Freedom entails the pursuit of what one wants out of life. Money, power or prestige are goals of most (if not all) human beings.
However, those goals need to be based on equal opportunity. This is not to say those goals should include criminal activity, but only education offers a chance for all to understand the difference between right and wrong. When equal educational opportunity is available to every person in the world, they may pursue what they think is in their interests. This, of course, is not a world that exists or can exist because personal interest is not the same for everyone.
Getting back to Mankell’s story, Latvia is challenged by its new freedom from the U.S.S.R. The suspicion of Russians is undoubtedly a truth about Latvian culture based on Latvia’s former life as a part of the U.S.S.R. Whether Russians are the criminal master minds of the drug trade is not the point. The point is that human nature requires a reason for everything that happens in a culture. The bad experience of repression by the U.S.S.R. may make Latvians suspicious of every Russian in Latvia. It is similar to Trump’s vilification of immigrants and how that ignorance resonates with some Americans.
Mankell and the author of “The Lilac Girls” are worth reading or listening to if you plan a trip to the Balkans. Traveling to other countries is more interesting because of what writers of fiction and history have to say.
Understanding our place in the world as a democratic nation is the real value of travel.
Books of Interest Website: chetyarbrough.blog
“The New Tourist” Waking Up to the Power and Perils of Travel
By: Paige McClanahan
Narrated By: Paige McClanahan
Paige McClanahan (Author, journalist, world traveler.)
“The New Tourist” offers a mixed message about travel outside of one’s own country. As a journalist, paid for her travel, Paige McClanahan explains the power and peril of travel in a way that misses the point. She explains the power of travel as an economic benefit to travel writers and countries which travelers visit. One peril she notes is the destruction from tourists who damage pristine natural environments because citizens of a host country are often not accustomed to crowds of travelers. One who travels and writes of their adventures encourages travel to exotic places that may or may not be prepared for high tourist traffic. Unpreparedness is partly due to host countries interest in the economic benefit of tourist visits but are disinclined to spend potential profits on preparation for high tourist traffic that may not arrive.
Like the Maui wildfires in 2o23, better Hawaiian’ preparation may have saved 102 lives and the beautiful town of Lahaina.
Ironically, travel writers like McClanahan are partly to blame for writing of great travel experiences they have had as tourists. They make a living by writing about their travels around the world.
There is a balance between tourist satisfaction and host countries’ benefit but finding the balance is a work in progress that may not begin before damage is done.
What McClanahan misses in her book, is the great benefit of traveling to learn about other cultures.
From personal experience, I have been surprised by natives of other countries who know so much about life and what their personal experiences have meant to them. In Africa, a native guide explains the night sky in a way that reminds one of a college astronomy course. In the former Yugoslavia, an older person explains how much she misses Tito as the ruler of her country. Visiting Turkey’s Cappadocia, one visits an underground “city” meant to protect Christians from people of another faith. In China, the incident of Tiananmen Square is told by a young man in a way that makes one understand authoritarianism carries a threat. In India, one is overwhelmed by the gap between the rich and poor, the monuments of a great nation’s antiquity, and the remnants of British colonization. In Thailand, you find there are citizens who admire their king, others that revile the army that is running the country, and youth that want change. A traveler learns of the killing fields of Cambodia and the mine fields left behind by America and Vietnam as a reminder of America’s folly in believing the lie of falling dominoes. These are a few examples of what can be learned by travel to other countries.
McClanahan briefly alludes to some of cultural benefits of travel, but her book focuses more on travels’ economic benefits for writers and host countries.
Understanding our place in the world as a democratic nation is the real value of travel.
Kaplan’s last chapters make a powerful statement about what America should do to meet today’s and tomorrow’s challenges.
Books of Interest Website: chetyarbrough.blog
“Earning the Rockies” (How Geography Shapes America’s Role in the World)
By: Robert D. Kaplan
Narrated by: William Dufris
Robert Kaplan (American Author, freelance journalist and foreign correspondent.)
The first chapters of Robert Kaplan’s “Earning the Rockies” are a travel memoir about America’s growth from 13 colonies to 50 states, but the last two chapters are a considered view of America’s turbulent history and what its role should be in the world.
Kaplan explains he comes from a working-class family born in New York City.
Kaplan was raised on the East Coast. His father was a local truck driver. However, his son became a world traveler who served in the Israeli Army and worked as a freelance writer for major publications. His travels and professional reporting experience undoubtedly influence his opinions about America’s role in the world.
Kaplan’s book begins with memories of his beloved father who talked to him about many things, one of which is a belief that “Earning the Rockies” requires one to work to make a living before traveling across the country.
Kaplan writes an apocryphal story of traveling from the east to west coast of America. In reflecting on his journey, he recalls the history of America’s growth as a nation state. He writes of white settler’s displacement of Indian tribes, a journey to the northwest by leaders of the Mormon church, and America’s growth and assembly of 50 states.
In his travels, Kaplan recalls:
1) America’s territorial growth with the Louisiana purchase,
2) confrontation with Mexico to expand America’s southwestern border,
3) Civil War for union rather than separation, and
4) Mormon and other pioneer travels on the Oregon Trail to see and settle the Northwest.
America becomes an economic giant, protected from foreign interference by two oceans.
In the creation of this American geographic giant, many territorial, political, and economic conflicts were resolved. Kaplan’s suggests America’s economic growth is based on force and compromise, the keys to America’s future in the world.
Kaplan’s American heroes are George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, Theodore Roosevelt, and George H.W. Bush. He adds the extraordinary insight of Ambassador George Kennan in his analysis of Russia. Kaplan notes other great leaders, but these four Presidents and one diplomat are examples of how American leaders use force and compromise to enhance the power and prestige of democracy in the world.
Kaplan explains prudent use of force and compromise is how the west was won and how America became an economic hegemon, a power and influence in the world.
Union of America’s States was perpetuated with force, while compromise continues to ameliorate the wrongs done to Indians and Blacks in America. Those wrongs will never be removed but compromise inures to the benefit of future generations.
Kaplan argues there is an imperial elite in America, similar to what were the elite and influential intellectuals of ancient Greece.
China is working toward a similar goal with its expansion of aircraft carrier and warship production.
Prudent use of power and compromise will expand the influence of every country that has hegemonic ambition. The operative word is “prudent”, i.e., navigating life with a thoughtful eye toward the future. Of course, there is a difference between China’s and America’s political prudence, but each is able to draw on resources that can change the course of history. The question becomes which has a system of government that can prudently use force and compromise to achieve peace and prosperity?
China’s and Russia’s education system leans toward communism which has not had the same level of success as capitalism.
America’s imperial elite is largely educated in American’ ivy league schools. Kaplan suggests, to the extent that these elitists grasp the importance of using force and compromise through democratic capitalism, the world has a chance for peace and prosperity.
Kaplan notes there is less geographic advantage for America today because of technological interconnectedness.